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Growing Healthy Container Plants

Enjoying our container plants does not finish once the plant is ensconced in its pot.
Healthy plants start from the correct choice of container, the right position for the plant and the right care. A well-planted and beautifully displayed selection of containers and plants is a thing of beauty and admiration.

As gardeners, we all have a selection of pots and containers from previous artistic efforts. Reusing these saves money, but only if they are clean and prepared correctly for the new plants. It is possible for disease to be transferred between plants in this manner.
Start by cleaning the containers thoroughly. Scrub the old pots in hot water and detergent. You can also use a ten percent ammonia solution to clean the used pots. Wear rubber gloves when doing this chore to protect your hands.

It is essential that the containers have adequate drainage to stop the roots of the plants rotting. Ways of improving drainage are adding stones or pebbles to the bottom of the container. The number of stones is dependent on the size of the pot. A few for a small pot increasing for the size of the containers .Hardware stores also sell container feet to stand the pots on to allow for air flow underneath the plot.
Even standing the pots on small pieces of wood or similar lifts the container of the ground and allows for airflow.
It is best not to leave planted containers standing in trays of water that may become stagnant, encouraging use by mosquitos for their larvae, let alone rotten roots!
A small layer of mulch or wood chips will help conserve moisture.

Container plants require fertilizing and I find liquid or water-soluble fertilizers ideal for this purpose. I feed my plants every two or three weeks during the growing season. You may wish to do this more frequently. We do things differently so be guided by the plant’s response to your care. Ease off the fertilizer in mid to late summer for plants that remain in the pots.

Constant attention of the plants such as trimming or removing dead or diseased growth as required will help maintain good-looking container plants.
Watering is an important ritual and our life of a container plant. I pick pots up as I pass by to check on how heavy they are. The weight being indicative of how much moisture there is in the container and soil. I prefer to water in the morning directly into the soil .The leaves should they become wet, dry before the cool of the evening. This is also true of garden plants in general. Everyone has their own opinion of this, some people preferring to water in the evening, allowing the water to soak through the soil.

Save Yourself a Fortune, Grow Asparagus!

If there is one season I look forward to it is the “asparagus “season.
The only drawback is that it takes up space in the garden as once imbedded the plants can produce for 15-20 years. A small price to pay for the delicious homegrown spears well covered in butter! For a six to eight week period in the spring, the taste buds spoilt even if the hips are not!

Asparagus can planted from seed if you have the patience to wait two or three years before they produce enough for a meal. Asparagus seedlings need to spend two years in the seedbed before they are mature enough for planting in the garden where they are to spend the rest of their life. Asparagus has male and female plants, the male producing the bigger spears.
Buy one and two-year-old asparagus crowns from nurseries to bypass the long wait for seedlings to mature. Avoiding the damaged crowns, use the one-year-old crowns if you are prepared to wait as the two-year-old plants may not transplant as well as the one-year-olds.

The site to suit the Asparagus is likely to have a hedge or fence to protect the plants from the wind. A sunny position is best but asparagus does tolerate some shade but there may be some reduction in yields.
Before planting prepare the soil and dig trenches, add fertilizer and organic manure or compost. They are partial to a sandy moist soil that has had plenty of fertilizer and organic matter added.
To plant the crowns make small mounds putting the crown on top of the mounds and spreading the roots over and around them allow approximately 60 cms between plants.
Cover the plants with two inches of soil and water the plants in. As the plants or shoots appear gradually, fill the trench with soil but do not cover the new shoots. By the time the trenches are filled in the plants are growing in ridges that are six inches high.

Water regularly over the summer and maintain fertilizer dressings of high nitrogen content. That encourages vigorous growth. Late autumn, early winter cut back the dead and dry ferns.
It is best to resist cutting the spears in the first spring following planting; however, the third year is the time to start harvesting. Over harvesting is likely to reduce yields the next year. Pick only the fat stems and leave the thinner ones to enrich the plants for the future. Once beds are three or four years old, you will be able to pick and enjoy asparagus every day or two for quite some time.

Should your harvest be excessive, the spears keep well in the crisper of the refrigerator. For long term storage freeze the spears, cutting off the woody part of the stem. Sort in to sizes thin, medium, and large. Blanching time for the various sizes are two minutes for thin, three minutes for medium and four minutes for the larger stalks. Freeze flat to enable easy use later in the year.

Cauliflowers Galore!

Cauliflowers are a popular vegetable but for children a nightmare. Well meaning parents try to encourage children to eat it but it is not high on children’s want to eat vegetable list! The unusual taste is definitely difficult to become accustomed to at young age. It is also a vegetable that is considered by wannabe gardeners as too hard to grow.
The cauli has a difficult media persona!

Certainly, the cauliflowers need a certain amount of attention to grow them well.
The cauliflower belongs to the Brassica family, as do broccoli, and cabbages. The plant produces a single head made up of meristems that if left to grow turn in to flowers.

The soil needs to be well prepared, digging well and incorporating fertilizer of your choice. Many gardeners have favorites but more and more use organic manures and fertilizers. The amount of manure and are dependent on how much use the garden bed has had in the past. The type of soil can govern the amount and type of fertilizers as soil varies from a light type to heavy clay. Leafy crops like the Brassica family appreciate soil high in nitrogen planting with additional nitrogen during the growing season.

Cauliflower seeds can be sown in seed trays or pots and transplanted when the plants are big enough. They are generally big enough a month to 6 weeks after planting the seeds. Always read the instructions on the seed packet to ensure a good result. Cauliflower seeds can be sown directly in the soil provided slug bait has been scattered. Alternatives
to slug bait that may be worth trying and crushed eggshells that have been baked in the oven for a couple of hours. Sand is worth trying as well to cut down attacks on the plants. Keeping weeds away from the plants also reduces the encouragement of slugs.

The companion plants for the Brassica family as well as carrots are Sage or Thyme. The strong smell of the herbs keeps the insects away. Whether or not the companion plants are effective is questionable, but there is this no harm in trying and making your own assessment if you see insects like greenfly or caterpillars, pick them off the plants and squash between fingers, or if you have chickens give them a treat.

Planting the small plants at approximate distance of 60 cm keep the plants weeded and watered well there is growing over the summer months. Side dress with either general-purpose fertilizer or one containing higher nitrogen, midway during the growing season.

Harvesting the cauliflowers is dependent on your requirements. As they start to form the heads, break the stems of the leaves closest to the head to shade them as the direct sun can cause the cauliflowers to go yellow, some gardeners even tie the top leaves together. Cut the cauliflowers while they are firm and white.

Cauliflowers keep well in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. If you are freezing them
they are cut into 1” floweret’s blanched in boiling water for 3 minutes. I spread them on trays for freezing and as soon as the pieces are frozen pack into bags that have had the air removed. Do not leave any longer as freezer burn and drying the cauli is very likely.